Caribbean dream Islands

Snorkelling in Jamaica

Point Village, Negril

Location

The resort of Negril boasts two excellent beaches, Bloody Bay to the north, and the seven mile stretch of Long Bay to the south. In between lies a small headland, the site of Point Village. The extreme north end of Long Bay forms the adult beach in one corner of the resort - an attractive spot, but no good for snorkelling. The rest of the shoreline is rocky, but an artificial beach has been created and forms the main resort beach. This is one of the main snorkelling sites, the other being by the rock pools at the northern edge of the headland.

The Main Beach

At first sight, this is not a promising spot for snorkelling, but it does hold a few surprises. The rocks bordering the beach are sharp and uneven, so entry is from the gently shelving sandy beach. Straight out the bottom is sand with patches of sea grass; not over full of fish, but patrolled by small shoals of Bar Jack, Yellowtail Snapper as well as a solitary Margate. These fish will dart away if you swim towards them, but should you be on an oblique collision course, they will be indifferent to your presence and you may find yourself in the middle of the shoal with fish only inches from your face. More aloof is the Barracuda which lords it over this area. He is used to people and shows none of the curiosity that Barracuda can show in less popular areas. Turn back and drift slowly into the little bay itself; the fish you frightened off a couple of minutes ago are back - Yellow Stingrays, Balloonfish, and on one occasion some tiny squid are there among the guests swimming and wading in the shallows.

Swim round the rock and head towards the beach bar. The water here is shallow, about 3 feet deep, and the bottom is coral rubble and sparse sea grass. This is surprisingly good snorkelling territory with Peacock Flounders, Balloonfish and Goldspotted Eels. If the weather is overcast, you may see the Chain Moray that lives among the rocks under the bar. This is also the territory of the Green Razorfish and the resplendent Bluehead. Just under the surface, where the waves wash under the bar, you will see Needlefish and Ballyhoo. These are easy to miss if your gaze is downward bent, so remember to keep looking all round.

Perched on the flat sea bed, a coral encrusted rock the size of a football acts as a miniature cleaning station. This is a hang out for various small cleaner fish, and brightly coloured juvenile Angelfish and Blue Tang. Further out, small gullies attract a variety of medium sized fish, with Yellowtail Snapper and Grunts being the most conspicuous.

But if you want to see Grunts, try snorkelling round the end of the stone jetty which defines the north end of the little beach. Several species including Blue Striped, White and French all swim together making it easy to spot and remeber the differences. Doctorfish, Ocean Surgeons, Trumpetfish and Bluespotted Cornetfish are all abundant here. Among the tumbled rocks which form the base of the jetty, live the Squirrelfish and Damselfish. Difficult to get a good look and identify the different species; unless, of course, you remembered to keep a piece of bread from breakfast. Crumble the bread into the water, and suddenly the fish are not so shy after all.

The Rock Pools

The rocks here have been artificially smoothed, and there is a great entry point from the extreme end of the rocks where you can step off into deep clear water. This is not, it should be mentioned, a good exit point - there is a fine fire coral, brown with a conspicuous pale edge, just under the edge of the rock. The other possible entry point, and the best exit point, is at the base of the steps behind the beauty spa hut. There is a gully along the edge of the rocks which takes you out into clear water, but except in very calm weather the bay itself is apt to be murky and full of dead leaves from the overhanging trees. This can make snorkelling within the bay less pleasant but the effect is quite localised.

The bay is a mixture of coral heads and large rocks which break the surface at low tide, interspersed with deep channels. This has the advantage of keeping boats and jet skis out of the way. Here you find a wealth of fish. Trumpetfish and Cornetfish hang head down pretending to be strands of seaweed. Scorpionfish and Octopi lurk inconspicuously under overhangs and the sandy bottom is home to Sand Divers, a variety of flat fish and even a Flying Gurnard.

Turning out of the bay, the water gets deeper, clearer, and cooler. Fewer fish, perhaps, but larger, including a fine Southern Stingray swimming effortlessly but far to fast for me to keep up. Shoals of good sized silver fish swim away, beyond my skill to identify. The current here sets round the point towards Bloody Bay; jet skis driven with more enthusiasm than skill appearing round this point with little warning are a distraction from the pleasures of snorkelling.

The Reef

Several local hotels offer boat trips to "the reef", either glass bottomed boats or snorkelling trips. This "reef" is a patch of very shallow coral just offshore, near the southern end of Booby Cay; it is alive with Sergeant Majors, but otherwise unremarkable. The coral is so shallow here that snorkelling is made hazardous by the wake from departing boats. Give it a miss, or view it from the hotel's glass bottomed boat.

Summary

No real coral reef, but varied and interesting snorkelling. Kit can be borrowed from the hotel dive center, but only for an hour at a time. You are always better off with your own snorkelling kit. A decent book to aid fish identification will increase your enjoyment.

Happy snorkelling!

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